Trans-Mexico Day #2 Copala to El Palmito

Trans-Mexico Day #2
December 28, 2021
Copala, SI to El Palmito, SI 51.7Km
Start 7:05am, Finish 1:27pm
Ride Time: 5:26
Ascent: 1979M
Descent: 588M
Tour Total Km: 107
Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/80585348

I believe I slept reasonably well last night, right besides the beautiful old colonial San Jose de Copala church, built in 1748. I’m sure that I slept because I remembered two dreams. But the cacophonous noise from the roosters and the barking dogs seemed like a constant throughout the night. At first light I decided to insert my earplugs, but couldn’t fall back asleep. I slowly packed up, ate my three bananas, and pedaled back out of town towards the libre. There had been condensation in the tent, and I was wearing my rain jacket as a shell over a short sleeve jersey and cycling shorts. My feet were comfortable without socks. The libre was quiet, and I was expecting a long day of continuous climbing, which began immediately. My rear radar sensor was working today.

I waved to everyone and everybody waved back. Each one of my ‘Buenas Dias’ greetings was returned with a ‘Buenas Dias’. Every passing motor scooter tweeted their horn. I saw more roadside shrines than I’d ever seen in my life, and they were all quite elaborate. I noticed a couple of small local drilling companies in the area.

After 2-1/2 km I pulled over to remove my jacket. I plugged in my iPod and fired up the tour’s first Duane Train show. Duane unfortunately left his time slot earlier this year, but his shows are still available on the WFMU archives.

In terms of today’s climbing, full disclosure, I did bring batteries with me to Mexico. I brought the most powerful batteries I own - My Legs! The poor things had been caged up in Mazatlan for four days restraining unfathomable raw energy. They were ready for some mountains and this fall’s training paid off.

The planned destination was El Palmito, where I knew I'd be able to find beer and a place to sleep. There would be no services along the route today. The libre meandered with the crooked mountains and took no short cuts. There were very few road cuts, and no tunnels, levees, or bridges on the libre. The streamline cuota could be seen in the valley down below.

The asphalt was smooth and there was very little traffic. The sun was starting to rise and beaming me straight on. I was passed by the Palmito to Mazatlan bus. It was good to know that I had a back-up transportation option. Down in the valley I could see a large bridge and tunnel for the cuota. I entered the small pueblo of La Guayanera where there were about twenty houses. The tortilla stand was closed and I noticed a guy in the main square selling shirts and hats from the side of his truck.

Down the road I met a group of cattle in the middle of the pavement. Their cowbells were clanging. Two dogs approached and were recoiled by their master on horseback. I then passed two goats with large bells tied around their necks. I entered the small pueblo of La Mesa Del Carrizal. The empanada stand was closed, as were the other businesses.

I climbed up through the first cut that I’d witnessed on the libre. It was serpentine shaped and dug deep through solid rock, as I climbed my way to the top of another ridge. Up on the top I found myself in a forest of pine trees with long needles.

The next pueblo was La Capilla Del Taxte. There was a large brown dog lying in the middle of the highway that I assumed had been hit by a car. As it turned out, he was taking a nap, and I begged him to sleep somewhere else. The hotel hadn’t seen a guest in years. The supermarket was closed. It was another sleepy pueblo.

I enjoyed a nice downhill as an eagle swooped through the air above me. I entered the small pueblo of Santa Lucia. Behind the old village a giant modern bridge carrying the cuota high above the buildings. Once again, everything was closed. I could hear the trucks from the cuota groaning as they struggled with the steep grades. A guy on a motorcycle passed me and gave me the thumbs up.

While climbing I spotted a picnic table alongside a hair pin curve, and I stopped for breakfast. Nearby was a waterfall and small stream, which added to the ambience. I enjoyed a Hickory Farms beef summer sausage and two more packaged tortillas.

After breakfast I continued climbing and passed up over the cuota where it entered a tunnel. I crossed back over the highway on an overpass and then climbed high up over another tunnel entrance. The libre wound it’s way to the top of every single pass while the quota cut straight under them.

I entered the pueblo of Potrerillos and stopped at a tienda for a peach juice and a small banana. I put on my brim and lathered myself with sunscreen. After my snack I kept climbing, and soon passed a sign indicating that I was now north of the Tropic of Cancer. I would be back in the tropics in just a few days. The climb brought me back up into another pine forest.

It was cool, and perfect cycling weather. The trees blocked me from the strong sun. I enjoyed a nice descent and was still following the ridge line. Three dogs came bounding out into the road towards me. They were good sized beasts and somewhat aggressive. I stopped, put my feet down, and told them to go away. I had thought about bringing dog spray but had decided against it.

I continued climbing up into the pines with an occasional descent. I could see El Palmito across the valley, and followed the ridge line all the way around to get there. On a descent, an avocado-sized rock found itself in front of my front wheel. It was quite a jolt. Sometimes I’m using one of my hands to film a video, or I’m distracted with my electronics. It was a good thing that I had both of my hands on the handlebars this time.

I documented the El Palmito sign and headed to an outdoor cantina for some gorditas and a large Coke. While I sat there, I worked on this report. The air was chilly and I sat in the sun. I put on my rain jacket to get warm. I needed to figure out where I'd be sleeping, and talked to the woman at the gordita stand. I could sleep in the town pavilion, where Jeff had slept, or I could get a hotel. I checked out the pavilion, and was concerned about streetlights, howling roosters, and barking dogs. The hotel was only $10. It lacked hot water and toilet paper, but I could bathe, charge my devices, and be warm and removed from the animal noise.

I noticed that my front tire was nearly flat. The ding on the brand new rim was unmistakable, and was right near the joint. Fingers crossed the wheel would hold. I was midway between Mazatlán and Durango.