Trans-Mexico Day #3 El Palmito to El Salto

Trans-Mexico Day #3

El Palmito to El Salto

Trans-Mexico Day #3

December 29, 2021

El Palmito, SI to El Salto DG 100Km

Start 7:45am Mountain, Finish 4:59 pm Central

Ride Time: 7:09

Ascent: 1950m

Descent: 1333m

Tour Total Km: 206

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/80647649

I slept well in room number 4 at the unnamed green painted hotel in El Palmito. Last evening I was able to post my report, fix my front tire, and enjoy a six-pack of Tecate in warm comfort.

There had been a small hole in my front inner tube where yesterday my wheel had hit a large rock. Both sides of the rim had serious dings and I was concerned about the nearby joint. I taped slivers of tire boots over the joint to prevent any pinching on the tube. The fix would need to get me to Durango.

The hotel windows had insulated me from the barking dogs. Once again I had weird dreams. I was freshly shaven and showered, and back at level one. All my devices were charged and I had a decent night’s sleep. I woke up with the light and began packing. My front tire was still holding pressure. It was 45 degrees outside and I started the ride in my short sleeve jersey and shorts, leg covers and socks, my new Bouré short-sleeve sweater, and rain jacket as shell. I was still wearing the brim from yesterday.

The climbing began immediately, and thick mist filled the valley. After a kilometer I passed the ‘Welcome to Durango’ sign. It was the tour’s second Mexican state, and I was now in central time. My destination, El Salto, was another 98 km ahead to the east.

I was surrounded by mostly long needle fir trees. I could feel the jabbing dings on my front wheel whenever I used my front brake, which made videography with my right hand risky. The jagged mountains towered above me and the valley was deep below. The mountain slopes were steep, and the libre followed the ridge-line a few hundred meters below the top.

I was passed by large lumber trucks hauling recently fallen trees. Today I was keeping a sharp eye for rocks in the road. There were a lot of small avalanches along the highway, resulting in road debris. It was overcast and the sun would occasionally try to reach it’s way through the mist, never quite succeeding. I was wearing the perfect layering combination and stayed warm as long as I was climbing.

After a nice descent beneath colossal bluffs above the highway, the road surface turned wet, possibly from an earlier rain. I passed through a small sleepy Puebllito with about eight houses. On one section of climbing I realized that I was out of lower gears. I was used to having at least one extra lower ring that I could turn to. I noticed numerous license plates from north of the border.

It was cold up near the ridge-line and my fingers were chilly. The dogs were behaving nicely, and I passed a squirrel with a big brown bushy tail that darted into the brush. It was the first terrestrial wildlife that I'd seen. I later saw two horses standing alongside the road.

My fingers and ears would freeze on the downhills. I thought about stopping, but continued on. I wound my way around a switchback and climbed my way back out towards a large open valley. I noticed many warning signs about fog.

The highway turned back towards the ridge-line and I continued climbing. Far off to the east I could see the meandering road ahead, cut into the slopes of the Sierra Madres. I see a radio tower in the distance, at what appeared to be a pass over a far-away ridge. I was at the 134 kilometer mark on my odometer. At times the highway would climb up to the ridge-line and utilize a saddle to connect to the next ridge. These saddles were cold and windy. The valley to the north of the ridge was less hazy.

I entered Espinazo del Diablo (the Spine of the Devil), and stopped to take a photo in front of the sign. There was a large billboard commemorating the construction and reconstruction of the libre. It included small shrine. Again- I have never seen so many shrines in my life. I had been cycling for three hours and, despite the cold, stopped for breakfast. I enjoyed a Hickory Farms turkey summer sausage along with my last packaged tortilla. I got back on my bike and continued climbing. At kilometer 142 I passed the small pueblo of Talle, and I spotted the radio tower that I’d seen from kilometer 134, 8 kilometers back.

The climbing was relentless and I was in my lowest gear. I pulled over at 8800 feet because of thick fog to turn on my front light. I passed through a small pueblito at what seemed to be the top of the ridge. Both of the restaurants were closed. I continued up onto the ridge and passed another small pueblito with a lumber-mill operation.

I was hitting lots of flat areas and downhills, and was starting to get cold. I pulled over to put on my balaclava. I entered the town of La Ciudad which was the largest town I’d encountered since Concordia. There were numerous grocery options and I stopped at an OXXO for two mango juices. There was a clownish guy out front with a bullhorn selling toys. He tried to get me to purchase a small wooden airplane model. There were many lumber mills in the area, and I noticed increased motor traffic and numerous businesses that appeared to be open.

After La Ciudad I encountered rollers with gentle ups and downs. Another squirrel ran across the road. It was getting late in the day, and I pulled over to remove my sunglasses. There was light precipitation, and yet I didn't feel like I needed to change my clothing quite yet. Somewhere along this stretch I pedaled to an altitude of 9250’, my highest yet on the tour. I had been at sea level on Monday.

I passed though another pueblo that featured a basketball court and a church. Cattle were grazing in nearby fields, and I seemed to be staying above 8800 feet. The libre crossed over the quota and there was an interchange where it was possible to get onto the cuota heading either towards Mazatlan or Durango. The libre passed directly alongside the cuota, and at one point shared an overpass and rock cut. The cuota would make a straight shot to El Salto, while the libre would meander. I noticed ice in one of the drainage ditches.

I had a nice flat section and then a smooth even downhill through the pine trees into El Salto. The town was the largest I’d visited since Mazatlan, and the approach greeted me with lumber yards and car workshops.

I got myself a room at the Hotel Los Piños in the center of town. I was in room 102 on the second floor and overlooking the highway. After a warm shower, I walked over to the deposito for a few bottles of Modelo. I then went to Restaurante Doña Nica where I ordered a chicken breast in a cabbage broth with a side of rice and tortillas, along with an overcooked chili releño and two Cokes. Everybody was talking about the cold weather. I was wearing my long underwear, convertible pants, long sleeve jersey, wool cycling sweater, and down sweater. I was fine.

Back at the hotel, the entire town’s power went out. I was able to edit this report on my laptop, but charging operations ceased. Internet service was also out. The heater in my room was gas powered so, despite the darkness, I remained toasty.